Georgian Jewellery Nowadays
Friday, 4 May 2018 | AnneFind Georgian Jewellery Nowadays The Georgian era started in 1714 with the accession of George I to the British throne and lasts until the end of the regency in 1830. When looking at Georgian jewellery we normally also include the reign of William IV as this takes us up to the start of Queen Victoria's reign with her new influences on style. Some of the most delicate and precious jewellery was made during the Georgian era, this is mainly in the hands of wealthy collectors and museums these days. Certainly, any really good pieces which do reach the market today are beyond the reach of the majority of antique jewellery buyers. So lets look at how to find Georgian jewellery nowadays.
What distinguishes Georgian Jewellery?Wonderful craftsmanship, we had not really entered the machine age during the Georgian era although the industrial revolution was in progress. Certainly, at the start of George, I reign most jewellery was handmade rather than mass produced.
GemstonesDiamonds but not as we know them today, they had a more basic cut which did not reflect the light and sparkle like modern diamonds do. To overcome this they had a foiled back setting with gold or silver behind this. The light could not come through the stones as it does nowadays and this closed back setting makes it very important not to get them wet. When you are looking to find Georgian jewellery nowadays look for paste. Paste was invented to imitate diamonds, paste is a high lead content glass which can be faceted and polished just like a diamond can. Paste was set into gold and silver and almost as highly regarded as diamonds at the time. Another diamond substitute at the time was marcasite which as today went well with silver. Not exactly a gemstone but Wedgwood first developed his jasper cameos during this time and these have been popular ever since. Cameos carved from shell and hardstone were brought back from the grand tours of Europe and were a huge jewellery influence
MetalsHigher carats in gold 18 and 22 were normal. Silver for setting stones in and rolled gold for cheaper pieces of jewellery. Strange black jewellery made from Iron and cut steel was also about but much of this has deteriorated and gone rusty by now. The mysterious metal alloy of zinc and copper called Pinchbeck was popular as a gold imitation. Pinchbeck was named after its inventor Christopher Pinchbeck who first produced it circa 1720.
What tells me its Georgian Jewellery?As I said earlier there are still genuine pieces of Georgian jewellery around but remember they are about 200 years old now and very few pieces have survived in unused condition. It is more than acceptable for pieces of this age to have a little wear to the reverse where it is not going to be seen. Do your research and ask lots of questions, you could check out pieces your local auction house is describing as Georgian but do ask them if it is definitely genuine. Buy from a reputable dealer who will give you a receipt and where you have a day or two to consider your purchase at home and can return it if you're not happy. AntiquesAvenue.co.uk offers both of these on all its jewellery but is not able to source many pieces which can definitely be attributed as Georgian. Georgian jewellery has a light and delicate appearance compared to Victorian pieces. If it is large and bulky consider it to be Victorian. Look for indicators of craftsmanship and handicraft rather than machine made.
Georgian jewellery today.
Yes, you can buy Georgian jewellery but as with all antiques, it depends upon what you want and how much you are prepared to pay. I suggest that the best value pieces are Georgian lace pin brooches. There are small pieces of jewellery a centimetre or two long and they must have been high fashion as a relatively large number of these have survived compared with other pieces. Georgian lace pins in good condition ( considering their age) can be found from £50 upwards depending on how fancy they are and what materials they are made from. Generally, Georgian lace pins are made of Rolled Gold or what is known as Gold Filled. Both of these have a real gold skin with other materials below the gold. Do not confuse this with today's gold plating, it is far superior.
<h3>About Georgian Lace Pins</h3>
On the back of a lace pin, you will find that the stones all have covered backs which was the way in the 1700's and early 1800s.
The pins and hinges are almost always the same. A broad hinge, small c catch and pin stem which is longer than the brooch. You can see these features in the last picture.
The gemstones you will see set into this antique jewellery include real seed pearls, flat cut garnets and amethyst, French and real jet, diamonds, coral and the then newly popular paste.